I hope this finds all going well. Did TT on the Captain over a bit over 30 hrs on Sun and Mon. No snow, not a drop of water in Horsetail, the driest conditions in Jan ever. Sad, but I digress. We had a BLAST! Had the entire wall to ourselves, low 70’s at the hottest point of the day, not too bad at night – at the ledge a pitch below the top where we did a no sleeping bag late Jan bivy. No snow on top, and nothing running down Horsetail. The air quality is so bad that even at the highest part of its arc the Mon was a dingy color. I hope that they get some rain and snow soon, it is looking like a desert down there. I trained way too hard before I did this. Decided to do it on Wed night when I sent Kris and Mickey e mails, then Kris and I drove down on Fri, racked up gear on Sat, met Mickey and blasted on Sun, and here I am back home as of about 2:30 this morning. My dislocated finger (and other fingers and left hand) are still healing, but I managed well by employing techniques that protected them. Took a fall on some slick granite when trying to stand near the top that bruised a rib and cased a bit
of soft tissue damage but nothing major. I’ll be doing housework and painting for the next few days, then hit the trail on Monday and begin training in earnest for our ascent in the Black and then I go to Zion, and then more El Cap fun!
Cheers mate! Wayne
p.s. my partners were Mickey Sensebach of San Luis Obispo, CA, who had turned 17 the week before, and kris Wickstrom 27, of North Bend, WA.