An Unassisted Adaptive Ascent of the South Howser Tower, Bugaboos

This July, adaptive climbers Jim Ewing, Nat Vorel, Mo Beck, and Seneida Biendarra headed to the Canadian Rockies to complete an unsassited adaptive ascent of the South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos.  You can read more about the trip from Jim’s perspective below.

Please tell us a little bit about yourself.

My name is Jim Ewing. I live in Maine. I’ve been climbing since about 1977. I’m married to Cathy King and we have one adult child, Maxine. I suffered a terrible accident in December of 2014 that ultimately lead to the amputation of my left leg below the knee in July of 2016.

Can you elaborate a bit more on the trip as a whole? Objectives, what made you choose the Bugaboos, etc.?

Since my amputation and recovery from my accident I’ve been on a little bit of a mission to tick off various “bucket list” type objectives. In 2019 I went to the Bugaboos for the first time with the intention of climbing the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire. Weather and time prevented us from getting a shot at that particular route but we did manage to climb Bugaboo Spire via the Kaine route as well as some shorter climbs in the area. In 2022 I returned to the Bugaboos and managed to climb several routes in the area and then, with none other than Sam Sala of Paradox, climbed the Northeast Ridge at the tail end of the that trip.
The next big objective in the Bugaboos was the mega classic and popular Becky-Chouinard on South Howser Tower, which is on the far southwest side of Bugaboo Provincial Park. I should mention that whenever possible I like to do these “bucket list” climbs with other adaptive climbers, unassisted by able bodied climbers. I kind of view it as making a statement that adaptive climbers are capable and can accomplish larger objectives in the mountains entirely on their own. So when I started planning for the Becky-Chouinard I had to find other like-minded adaptive climbers who also had the skills for such an undertaking.
As to why the Bugaboos, well, you only have to look at photos of the area to understand. The Bugaboos are simply one of the most picturesque collections granite spires in North American. The rock is generally solid and clean for an alpine environment and the routes offer some of the most spectacular climbing in the world.

How do you prepare/train for a trip like this? Any considerations or preparations that you’d share with other adaptive climbers?

For these sorts of trips I mostly focus on general fitness. I do a lot of day hikes for cardio to help with the endurance that is typically needed for climbs of this size. For climbing fitness I do a lot of sport climbing to build or maintain strength. I also do a little bit of trad climbing just keep the skills fresh. I’ve been climbing a relatively long time and have done a ton of trad throughout my career so I don’t really need to focus as much on those skills as others might want. Any adaptive climber looking to go to places like the Bugaboos really need to have their trad game dialed and be completely comfortable in alpine environments. We encountered steep snow (and deep), crevassed glaciers, freezing temperatures at night, and sometimes scorching sun during the day.

Did you encounter any learning experiences while on this trip?

Every climbing trip is a learning experience, adaptive or not. On this trip I’d say I relearned that things don’t always go as planned and one has to adapt to change. We did not plan to bivy on the climb but we were forced to as we ran out of daylight. We were prepared to bivy but did not want to. During our descent we got a core shot in one of our ropes and had to change our rappel plans. Being able to adapt and improvise is definitely an important trait to develop.

What was your favorite part of the experience?

Aside from just simply existing in such an amazingly beautiful landscape I’d say getting to know my climbing partners is always my favorite part of these kinds of experiences. Bonding with other people is not exactly my favorite thing in the world but something always changes in me when I’m with other climbers. I guess mountains and climbing settings are where I’m most comfortable and find it easier to open up to others. With adaptive climbing partners I think it’s even better. We can share our challenges; the things we struggle with, on a different level than we can with able bodied partners. 

On this trip I had three partners. My now longtime friend and climbing partner, Mo Beck, and two others. I had met Nat Vorel and Seneida Biendarra at the Adaptive Climbers Festival last year and knew they were both strong climbers who compete on the IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup circuit.

Do you have any upcoming trips/other big objectives planned for the future?

Nothing firm but there are a lot of conversations going on about what is next; maybe Alaska, maybe the Alps.  Anything is possible. In the meantime, I’ll be sport climbing in various locations and probably getting after some ice climbing in the upcoming season. Oh, I do happen to have a little side quest adventure coming up in December. I call it a side quest because it’s not a climbing trip but rather a scuba dive trip to Roatan, Honduras with family and friends.

Is there anything else you’d like to share?

In the spirit of the season of giving thanks I want to say how thankful I am of Paradox Sports and the adaptive climbing community as a whole. Without the support from the Adaptive Adventure Fund this trip would not have happened. 

Jim received an Adaptive Adventure Fund from Paradox Sports to help fund this trip.  If you’d like to learn more, apply for a scholarship, or donate directly to the Adaptive Adventure Fund to help others create impactful experiences in the outdoors, you can find more information here.

Photo Descriptions:

Photo 1: From left to right: Mo, Seneida, Nat, and Jim smile at the camera as they take a selfie.  The group is sitting in front of an orange tent while they hang out at their base camp.  Some bags and camp gear can be seen in the background.  Behing them, there are large, steep rock walls with snow collecting on some of the faces.  There is a valley covered in snow and other mountains off in the distance.  It’s a blue sky day.  Nat is posing with a camp spatula.

Photo 2: The group is sitting and smiling at the camera together after topping out on the summit of South Howser Tower, July 20, 2024.  They are sitting on top of the peak, wearing helmets and harnesses.  There are other, large, steep rock faces in the background as well as a valley covered in snow below.  The sky is blue and the faint image of other mountains can be seen in the background. 

Photo 3: The group is getting pre-flight instructions for their helicopter ride into the Bugaboos.  The group is facing away from the camera, looking at someone who can be seen sitting in the side door of the red helicopter.  There is a grassy field behind them that leads to a forest and mountains.  It’s a sunny, blue sky day. 

Photo 4: Seneida is topping out on the Becky-Chouindard.  The image is taken from far away and Seneida can be seen standing between two large rock faces, posing by flexing for the camera. 

Photos 5-7 9 (from left to right):

Photo 5: Senedia, Mo, and Nat at the top of pitch 10 of the route.  Everyone is wearing harnesses and helmets and taking a break, sitting close to the rock wall.  Mo is posing for the camera. 

Photo 6: A top down image from the group’s alpine start.  It is still dark outside as the group makes their way by headlamp.

Photo 7:  Nat on top of the first pitch of the route.  There is a chossy ledge that Nat is standing on while looking at the camera.  Across a valley of snow are other rock formations and a jagged ridgeline to a snowy peak.  The sky is yellow and orange as the sun rises.